Core Kyoto

Over 1,200 years, Kyoto has evolved into a cultural capital, boasting superb crafts, cuisine and architecture. Narrator Gary Tegler reflects on 200 episodes of Core Kyoto and visits artisans at work.

Core Kyoto narrator Gary Tegler gets a close-up look at the Gion Matsuri, which began over 1,000 years ago, as he unravels the mystery of the decorations and meets the foreign volunteers.

The Zen school of Buddhism emphasizes the practice of zazen meditation as the path to enlightenment. The spirit of Zen flows through the gardens, art, cuisine and other aspects of Kyoto culture.

Kyotoites have lived in kyo-machiya townhouses for centuries. Each year, 1,000 are demolished, but Kyo-machiya Sakujigumi, a group of craftsmen skilled in machiya restoration, use natural materials and traditional methods to preserve them. Megumi Hata, whose family kyo-machiya was built in 1869, discusses how living in a machiya means living comfortably in harmony with nature. Within their walls, the wisdom, the way of life and the spirit of Kyotoites remain unchanged through the generations.

Stimulating all five senses, kaiseki-ryori is a Kyoto culinary work of art. Eiichi Takahashi, 14th generation owner of Hyotei, stresses kaiseki's roots in cha-kaiseki meals served at tea ceremonies. Leading chefs and researchers explore new potential for kaiseki. Takuji Takahashi, 3rd generation owner of Kyo-ryori Kinobu, creates novel dishes using Western methods while preserving the form of Japanese cuisine. These inquisitive minds pursue the ultimate in culinary hospitality.

Kyoto has about 2,700 temples where an array of benevolent, meek, and ferocious Buddhist statues are worshipped. World Heritage temple Toji has a configuration of statues in an imposing, 3D mandala and a beautifully woven mandala, which captures the cosmos. The jizo statues standing on street corners have a special place in the lives and hearts of Kyotoites. Today, sculptors continue to breathe life into Buddhist statues, and skilled craftsmen create magnificent works using gold leaf in microns.

Kyoto confections are wagashi, or traditional confections, infused with Kyoto's charm and influenced by the tea ceremony. With beautiful designs and names that subtly reflect the seasons, tea confections are an art form to be appreciated with the 5 senses. When making these confections, importance is placed on the semblance and name they are given. Inspiration is drawn from local nature, art, music and literature. Feel Japan's culture, nature and climate through flavorsome Kyoto confections.

Traditional washi paper flourished in the temples, shrines and palaces of the ancient capital. Enduring today, this versatile paper is used to decorate interiors, such as sliding doors and hanging scrolls. Kurotani has been the papermaking center of Kyoto washi for 800 years. Katazome-washi is dyed with traditional yuzen-dyeing patterns. Useless washi and centuries-old books are used in recycle-themed artworks. The efforts of Kyoto's artisans and artists nurture Kyoto's washi culture.

Obanzai are the frugal side dishes that grace dinner tables daily in Kyoto - the home of washoku, or Japanese cuisine. Cooked to make the staple dish of rice taste delicious, they use only simple ingredients. The wisdom in the preparation is eco-friendly; scraps are reused, none are discarded. The menu handed down in the Sugimoto clan for more than 200 years embodies the spirit of obanzai. Washoku was added to UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2013, and obanzai is in the spotlight.

Around 400 years ago, Sen-no-rikyu pursued the art of heart-to-heart communication through a bowl of tea and advanced the wabi-cha style of tea ceremony, stressing the beauty within simplicity. The utensils are vital in conveying the hosts' sentiments. The essence of wabi-cha pervades the utensils made by 10 artisan families, purveyors to the Sen clan. Watch these artisans at work in a range of crafts from lacquerware to joinery and discover the spirit and aesthetic sensibilities of Kyoto.

Kyoto tsukemono, or pickles, are made with various combinations of pickles and agents to preserve seasonal vegetables. Of these, three major varieties are still made using unique methods. Suguki turnip pickles, once made by Shinto priestly clans, have a rich, sour taste. Shibazuke pickled eggplants have the reddish hue of shiso leaves. One family makes senmaizuke white-turnip pickles with a special recipe. Discover the wisdom and skill accumulated over centuries that make vegetables tastier.

February 3 is New Year's Eve by the old, lunar calendar and is the boundary between winter and spring. On this day, called Setsubun, households scatter soybeans for good fortune in the coming year, expelling the demons that represent misfortune and calamity. The shrine Yoshida Jinja protects Kyoto at the 'demon's gate' in the northeast with a ritual in which the 'shaman' wears a four-eyed mask. Farmers in rural areas uphold the custom of driving out moles. Disguised geiko pray for protection against evil. Discover how Kyotoites pray for order in life through these safeguarding traditions.

Kyo-yaki, or artistic ceramics fired in Kyoto, evolved within the rich culture of the ancient capital as crockery for the local cuisine and as utensils in tea ceremony. One potter, who devotes his life to overglaze enamels, renders refined patterns and colors on his pieces. Another has refined his molding skills and creates pieces that are easy for chefs to use. These ceramics embody the Kyotoites' desire to please their guests. Discover how the charm of Kyo-yaki ceramics grows with use.

Suiseki is the appreciation of natural stone shapes using poetic imagination to visualize magnificent mountain, island, or waterfall landscapes. This pastime arrived from China in the late 1100's and spread among Kyoto aristocrats and Zen monks. Suiseki's beauty lies in the stones' understated simplicity and becalming quality. The Seven Stones of Kamo found in the Kamo River basin are prized in suiseki circles. Discover the profound world of rock appreciation that evolved in the old capital.

Kyo-kanoko shibori is the general term used for tie-dyed fabric made in Kyoto. The bumpy pattern on the fabric's surface is mesmerizing with its delicate shadows. Binding parts of the fabric to leave undyed areas allows certain colors to bleed and lends the design solidity. Each stage in the process has its own specialized artisan for design, binding, dyeing, and other stages in between. Discover the alluring world of Kyo-kanoko shibori through the dexterous hands of passionate artisans.

Some 1,000 years ago, monks from warring Mt. Hiei and nobles from the capital retreated from the world in rustic Ohara, northeast of Kyoto. The monks perfected the practice of shomyo, a melodic singing of Buddhist sutras, and in its heyday the village had as many as 50 practice halls. Ohara also was a sanctuary for nuns, and is known for the distinctively dressed local women called Oharame, who sold firewood in Kyoto. Discover the nature and history of Ohara through the deep faith at its heart.

The Kyoto State Guest House was built as a Japanese-style reception facility within the Kyoto Imperial Palace Park in 2005. This serene, elegant single-story facility hosts dignitaries from around the world. As of 2016 it is now open to the public year-round. Seasoned Kyoto craftsmen in traditional architecture and the industrial arts applied their expertise to imbue it with the ultimate in hospitality. Discover another facet to Kyoto sensibilities through their impeccable attention to detail.

Sento, or bathhouses, were built in Kyoto to cater to the large student and artisan population who lived in lodgings without baths. Many are worthy of historic note. One has been operating for 1,300 years; another is part of a temple complex. Some have splendid decors or interesting baths. Today they remain lively social hubs of their communities. A young manager strives to create a Sento young people frequent. Discover the allure of Sento where people gather to relieve the stress of the day.

Mount Kurama, located north of urban Kyoto, is steeped in legend. Goblin-like creatures called Tengu are believed to live deep in the forest, where one allegedly taught swordsmanship to a 12th-century samurai general. Other legends swirl around Kurama-dera, the main temple. Kifune Jinja is dedicated to the water deity and draws many women wanting to discover their fortunes in love. Discover the mystic energy that surrounds one of Kyoto's prime "power spots" through the local folklore.

Kyotoites in days of old valued high quality fabric and woven textiles from abroad like gold. Pieces of these fabrics have been handed down and continue to fascinate people today. Their eternal beauty is preserved through repurposing as tea utensil pouches, tobacco holders, obi sashes and even as works of art. Weavers strive to learn the techniques used in days gone by in order to reproduce them. Discover the culture of reverence for the great beauty and skill to be found in old fabric pieces.

The year end begins in mid-December. Maiko and geiko pay their respects to teachers. Decorations and other seasonal goods enjoy brisk sales at markets, homes are decorated and osechi cuisine is prepared. On New Year's Eve people give thanks for the old year at Yasaka Jinja, and the next day the Toshigami deity brings the New Year to every home. Families exchange greetings and feast on osechi with gratitude to the deity. Discover how Kyotoites revere the New Year through their long-held customs.

Arashiyama -- one of Japan's most scenic spots -- and famous temples are located in Sagano. Its lush nature and seasonal beauty enchanted the court nobility who made it their retreat a millennium ago, and it is still regarded as a special destination today. Daikaku-ji was once the villa of Emperor Sagano. Many other temples and shrines are the settings for literary and historical tales. Discover the relaxing, peaceful qualities of Sagano through the people dedicated to conserving its picturesque scenery.

Many modern buildings for use by ordinary citizens, such as homes, schools, and restaurants, sprang up around Kyoto in the early 1900's. Kyotoites desired buildings that blended in with the natural environment and suited the local lifestyle. So they erected impressive structures merging the latest Western technology and design with Japanese flair. Discover Kyoto's modern architecture through the citizens who aimed to revitalize the city through their quest for buildings befitting the new age.

It may come as a surprise that Kyoto -- the capital of Japanese cuisine -- leads the country in the consumption of Western culture's staple food. Bread entered through Yokohama and Kobe during modernization in the mid-1800's and soon took root in Kyoto, leading to a flourishing bakery culture centered around snack buns and sandwiches, as practical, novelty-loving Kyotoites took to the convenience and modernity of baked goods. Discover Kyoto's love of the new through its embrace of bread.

With kimono no longer everyday attire, Kyoto's dyeing industry faces decline. But people are taking on the challenge of ensuring the traditional techniques will survive. An artist specializing in Katazome stencil dyeing evokes distinctive worlds with profound, vibrant hues, unattainable with brushes and paint. An artisan has introduced 3D printing to Kyo-kanoko tie-dyeing for a fresh perspective. Discover the new wave of innovation bringing today's traditional dyeing culture into the future.

The performing art of Noh has a history stretching back more than 600 years and is registered on UNESCO's list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Masked actors in sumptuous costumes use dance to convey stories of ghosts seeking salvation, with dialog and narration sung to musical accompaniment. These ancient spiritual stories still speak to people today. Discover a popular form of theater through Kyoto's many amateur performers and the professionals who want to spread its appeal.

A girl in her first year receives dolls representing an emperor and empress. People give each other Senmaizuke turnip pickles at year's end. In December, maiko present their dance teachers with mochi rice cakes and receive folding fans in return. In Kyoto, the custom of giving gifts at milestones and at the change of seasons has its origins in ancient court ceremonies that express gratitude and celebration. Discover the Kyoto culture of building and maintaining relationships through gift giving.

Hosoo Masataka, the 12th-generation of a Nishijin brocade producer, is making waves abroad as he updates the Nishijin brand with new technology and textiles. Tokyo-based architect Aoki Jun is director of the Kyoto City KYOCERA Museum of Art that reopened in 2020. His renovations introduced an open-plan that blends in with the surroundings and encourages interaction among visitors. Both share a deep appreciation of Kyoto aesthetics: one from within the city and the other from outside.

Mountainous Keihoku in Kyoto's north is more than 90% woodlands. The drastic temperature differences and the frequent rain and mist are ideal conditions for forestry. For more than 1,200 years the area supported the ancient capital's prosperity, supplying it with raw materials and food supplies. Residents carry on the trades of their ancestors, coexisting with nature. Discover how Keihoku is attracting attention from people wanting to learn the customs of old to build a sustainable future.

Reizei Kimiko is the daughter of the 24th head of a once aristocratic family. Together with her husband, she upholds traditions in Waka poetry and other court rituals. Sugimoto Setsuko, the 10th generation of a former merchant family, preserves their Machiya townhouse for posterity and promotes the Obanzai style of cooking. Maintaining their family foundations, they both have faced adversity with the current pandemic. Discover the joy, pride and responsibility of carrying on family traditions.

Gold and silver threads, made by lacquering gold and silver leaf onto washi, are indispensable in Nishijin brocade. The opulent appearance led to generous use in court and religious attire, and in festival floats and palanquins. In the 1960s, mass production of lamé enabled the industry to diversify into women's fashion. But now it is in crisis with a lack of craftsmen, and market shrinkage due to the pandemic. Discover how artisans struggle to conceive fresh ideas and create new opportunities.

After the capital moved to Tokyo in the late 1800s, Kyoto citizens enthusiastically modernized the city. Many of the buildings from that era, which were inspired by Western architectural techniques, still stand today. Professor Nakajima Setsuko of Kyoto University researches modern architecture. Malian Oussouby Sacko, president of Kyoto Seika University, specializes in architecture in Japan. They discuss how the transformation and rebirth of modern architecture hold hints for the future.

Aristocracy, samurai and high-ranking citizens of the ancient capital prized writing implements of sophisticated design, made with expert skill. Stationery was seen as conveyance of their intellect and sense. This deep-rooted calligraphic culture survives in Kyoto in fountain pen ink inspired by Kyoto's dyeing specialists, colorful pastels in traditional hues, and jewel-like glass pens. Discover how the world of ink and other stationery continues to enrich people's lives in the ancient capital.

Fushimi Inari Taisha holds a festival in November, burning rice straw in gratitude of a plentiful harvest. The straw symbolizes a meaningful connection as the deity of rice is believed to dwell within rice grains, and it is used in prayers for offspring and in New Year's decorations. Rice straw is also used in everyday items, and an artisan weaves it into modern ornaments, redefining straw craftwork. Discover the multifaceted beauty of prayer infused into rice straw throughout the centuries.

Life in Kyoto has long been underscored by a culture of frugality and cherishing belongings; the city has many stores dealing in curios and antiques. One shop handles old calligraphic works and paintings. Another offers handicrafts difficult to make with modern technology. An increasing number of stores offer practical antiques, and more people are feeling comfortable about using them in daily life. Discover how Kyotoites have always appreciated the imperfections in objects resulting from aging.

In the 10th century samurai guarding the emperor and aristocrats began to wear colorful armor, reflecting the capital's elegance. High-ranking samurai practiced mounted warfare, shooting arrows from horseback. When infantry warfare became the norm, armor lost its practicality and became a symbol of a samurai's power. The elaborate armor they commissioned involved dying, weaving, lacquer, and metal artisans. Discover the beauty within samurai armor that is now upheld as the ultimate in craftwork.

Cooking utensils influence Kyoto cuisine, helping to bring out the inherent flavor of local ingredients. Artisans and chefs believe that upholding the handicrafts sustains the taste of Kyoto.

Kyoto is not all traditional cuisine. It has become one of Japan's leading ramen hubs thanks to being a student town. Tastes evolve and flavors change as restaurants strive to satisfy clientele.

Paintings and calligraphy are often mounted on sliding doors and scrolls. Artisans consider the story behind each piece and the client's wishes to best showcase the artwork.

Kyoto has about 13,000 alleys with a total distance of 940km, and an increasing number of their houses are unoccupied. People are working on projects and tours to preserve and revitalize these areas.

This iconic Kyoto destination, popular for a millennium, has the perfect climate and topography for fall foliage. Some people create new ways to enjoy autumn, while others uphold fall traditions.

Several annual rituals performed at Shinto shrines involve bows and arrows that are believed to hold divine power and dispel evil. These weapons also hone the spirit through the practice of archery.

Bonsai came from China over 1000 years ago, evolving into a unique artform. In Kyoto, the emphasis is on beauty and harmony in space, the same aesthetic that flows through ikebana and the Way of Tea.

Taitan is Kyoto-style cuisine in which seasonal heritage vegetables are simmered until they are infused with dashi stock. The method evolved from vegetarian dishes made at Kyoto's Buddhist temples.

Traditional Tsukemono, or pickles, preserve centuries of wisdom, allowing the vegetables' inherent flavors to shine. Picklers uphold tradition while embracing new challenges for modern tastes.

Kyotoites have lived in kyo-machiya townhouses for centuries. Each year, 1,000 are demolished, but Kyo-machiya Sakujigumi, a group of craftsmen skilled in machiya restoration, use natural materials and traditional methods to preserve them. Megumi Hata, whose family kyo-machiya was built in 1869, discusses how living in a machiya means living comfortably in harmony with nature. Within their walls, the wisdom, the way of life and the spirit of Kyotoites remain unchanged through the generations.

Stimulating all five senses, kaiseki-ryori is a Kyoto culinary work of art. Eiichi Takahashi, 14th generation owner of Hyotei, stresses kaiseki's roots in cha-kaiseki meals served at tea ceremonies. Leading chefs and researchers explore new potential for kaiseki. Takuji Takahashi, 3rd generation owner of Kyo-ryori Kinobu, creates novel dishes using Western methods while preserving the form of Japanese cuisine. These inquisitive minds pursue the ultimate in culinary hospitality.

Kyoto has about 2,700 temples where an array of benevolent, meek, and ferocious Buddhist statues are worshipped. World Heritage temple Toji has a configuration of statues in an imposing, 3D mandala and a beautifully woven mandala, which captures the cosmos. The jizo statues standing on street corners have a special place in the lives and hearts of Kyotoites. Today, sculptors continue to breathe life into Buddhist statues, and skilled craftsmen create magnificent works using gold leaf in microns.

Kyoto confections are Wagashi, or traditional confections, infused with Kyoto's charm and influenced by the tea ceremony. With beautiful designs and names that subtly reflect the seasons, tea confections are an art form to be appreciated with the 5 senses. When making these confections, importance is placed on the semblance and name they are given. Inspiration is drawn from local nature, art, music and literature. Feel Japan's culture, nature and climate through flavorsome Kyoto confections.

Traditional washi paper flourished in the temples, shrines and palaces of the ancient capital. Enduring today, this versatile paper is used to decorate interiors, such as sliding doors and hanging scrolls. Kurotani has been the papermaking center of Kyoto washi for 800 years. Katazome-washi is dyed with traditional yuzen-dyeing patterns. Useless washi and centuries-old books are used in recycle-themed artworks. The efforts of Kyoto's artisans and artists nurture Kyoto's washi culture.

Obanzai are the frugal side dishes that grace dinner tables daily in Kyoto - the home of washoku, or Japanese cuisine. Cooked to make the staple dish of rice taste delicious, they use only simple ingredients. The wisdom in the preparation is eco-friendly; scraps are reused, none are discarded. The menu handed down in the Sugimoto clan for more than 200 years embodies the spirit of obanzai. Washoku was added to UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2013, and obanzai is in the spotlight.

Around 400 years ago, Sen-no-rikyu pursued the art of heart-to-heart communication through a bowl of tea and advanced the wabi-cha style of tea ceremony, stressing the beauty within simplicity. The utensils are vital in conveying the hosts' sentiments. The essence of wabi-cha pervades the utensils made by 10 artisan families, purveyors to the Sen clan. Watch these artisans at work in a range of crafts from lacquerware to joinery and discover the spirit and aesthetic sensibilities of Kyoto.

Kyoto tsukemono, or pickles, are made with various combinations of pickles and agents to preserve seasonal vegetables. Of these, three major varieties are still made using unique methods. Suguki turnip pickles, once made by Shinto priestly clans, have a rich, sour taste. Shibazuke pickled eggplants have the reddish hue of shiso leaves. One family makes senmaizuke white-turnip pickles with a special recipe. Discover the wisdom and skill accumulated over centuries that make vegetables tastier.

February 3 is New Year's Eve by the old, lunar calendar and is the boundary between winter and spring. On this day, called Setsubun, households scatter soybeans for good fortune in the coming year, expelling the demons that represent misfortune and calamity. The shrine Yoshida Jinja protects Kyoto at the 'demon's gate' in the northeast with a ritual in which the 'shaman' wears a four-eyed mask. Farmers in rural areas uphold the custom of driving out moles. Disguised geiko pray for protection against evil. Discover how Kyotoites pray for order in life through these safeguarding traditions.

Kyo-yaki, or artistic ceramics fired in Kyoto, evolved within the rich culture of the ancient capital as crockery for the local cuisine and as utensils in tea ceremony. One potter, who devotes his life to overglaze enamels, renders refined patterns and colors on his pieces. Another has refined his molding skills and creates pieces that are easy for chefs to use. These ceramics embody the Kyotoites' desire to please their guests. Discover how the charm of Kyo-yaki ceramics grows with use.

Suiseki is the appreciation of natural stone shapes using poetic imagination to visualize magnificent mountain, island or waterfall landscapes. This pastime arrived from China in the late 1100s and spread among Kyoto aristocrats and Zen monks. Suiseki's beauty lies in the stones' understated simplicity and becalming quality. The Seven Stones of Kamo found in the Kamo River basin are prized in suiseki circles. Discover the profound world of rock appreciation that evolved in the old capital.

Kyo-kanoko shibori is the general term used for tie-dyed fabric made in Kyoto. The bumpy pattern on the fabric's surface is mesmerizing with its delicate shadows. Binding parts of the fabric to leave undyed areas allows certain colors to bleed and lends the design solidity. Each stage in the process has its own specialized artisan for design, binding, dyeing, and other stages in between. Discover the alluring world of Kyo-kanoko shibori through the dexterous hands of passionate artisans.

Some 1,000 years ago, monks from warring Mt. Hiei and nobles from the capital retreated from the world in rustic Ohara, northeast of Kyoto. The monks perfected the practice of shomyo, a melodic singing of Buddhist sutras, and in its heyday the village had as many as 50 practice halls. Ohara also was a sanctuary for nuns, and is known for the distinctively dressed local women called Oharame, who sold firewood in Kyoto. Discover the nature and history of Ohara through the deep faith at its heart.

The Kyoto State Guest House was built as a Japanese-style reception facility within the Kyoto Imperial Palace Park in 2005. This serene, elegant single-story facility hosts dignitaries from around the world. As of 2016 it is now open to the public year-round. Seasoned Kyoto craftsmen in traditional architecture and the industrial arts applied their expertise to imbue it with the ultimate in hospitality. Discover another facet to Kyoto sensibilities through their impeccable attention to detail.

Sento, or bathhouses, were built in Kyoto to cater to the large student and artisan population who lived in lodgings without baths. Many are worthy of historic note. One has been operating for 1,300 years; another is part of a temple complex. Some have splendid decors or interesting baths. Today they remain lively social hubs of their communities. A young manager strives to create a sento young people frequent. Discover the allure of sento where people gather to relieve the stress of the day.